How to Form Concrete Walls

This article was co-authored by Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Gerber Ortiz-Vega is a Masonry Specialist and the Founder of GO Masonry LLC, a masonry company based in Northern Virginia. Gerber specializes in providing brick and stone laying services, concrete installations, and masonry repairs. Gerber has over four years of experience running GO Masonry and over ten years of general masonry work experience. He earned a BA in Marketing from the University of Mary Washington in 2017.

There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.

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Concrete is one of the cleanest and most versatile types of wall material available. Whether you need a wall as a property marker, a support structure, or to hold back soil or water, you can make one by building wood frames called forms. A concrete wall needs to be built on top of a concrete footer in order to be stable. Afterward, place the forms and pour the concrete to shape your wall. Creating a wall is big work, so consider contacting a professional for help or advice to ensure you get a stable structure.

Building a Concrete Retaining Wall

Map out the area for the wall, dig out soil for the footer, and pour in gravel to protect the concrete. Place a steel rebar about 1⁄3 of the way up the footer hole, pour in the concrete, and let it cool for 7 days. Build and attach a wooden frame to the footer, pour concrete into the frame, and let it cure for 4 days.

Part 1 of 4:

Wall Footers

Marking chalk, along with any of the other supplies you need for the wall, are available at most hardware stores.
Be aware of any utility lines or other obstacles in the area. Your local utility companies can help you with this.

The footer needs to be below the frost line, which is about 1 ft (0.30 m) below the soil’s surface on average. Check your local government’s municipal code for an exact estimate.
The footer size you need depends on the wall you wish to create. A good footer is as tall as the wall is wide.
If you already have a concrete base in place, you do not need to create another one. Instead, skip to setting up the form.

Make sure the soil is level before you begin pouring concrete. If you need to, plant stakes and run string tightly between them. Check for any spots where the string doesn’t rest firmly on the soil.

The layer of stone helps prevent the concrete from shifting and cracking over time. It also increases drainage in clay soil.

You can also expand the rebar grid up the sides of the hole. This will give the concrete additional stability. It’s necessary if you’re planning on putting heavy walls on top of the footer, such as for a pool or house.

You may be able to rent a concrete mixer. Check your local hardware store.
Remember to leave space between the soil’s surface and the footer. The height of the soil over the footer needs to be equal to the width of the wall you wish to build.

Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the exact drying time needed. It varies depending on which mix you choose. For a quick-dry mix, it will take about 7 days.
As you wait for the concrete to cure, begin building the wood form you need to shape the concrete wall.

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Building Forms

Rest the frame pieces against a solid surface to prevent them from falling. If your frame is tall, you may need to begin installing the connecting studs before adding more boards.
Try to make the frame pieces as long as you need them to be. If you’re building a long wall, build the frame in sections. Smaller pieces are much easier to handle and can be joined together later.
If you’re building your own forms, you will probably need to do plenty of cutting. Have a circular saw ready along with a dust mask and ear protection.

Place the nails about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the top and bottom edges of each stud.

The wales also provide a place for you to tie connecting wires and attach braces for additional support.

The braces aren’t exactly part of the forms, but they provide much-needed stability to the forms.

The additional brace boards need to be about 12 in (30 cm) long. The exact length depends on the size of your wall. Taller walls need longer braces for extra support.

Nail through the plywood and into the studs. If you work the other way, the screw ends will stick out into the concrete you pour, affecting your wall.

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Installing Forms

Plant the stakes firmly in the ground. When your forms are in place, they won’t budge at all. Test them out by pushing against them with your hand.
If you’re having a hard time getting everything to stay still where you need it, try using wire ties. Wrap wires around the studs in the forms to tie them to the shoe plates. Drill holes in the plates as needed to attach the wires.

Drill 1 ⁄₈ in (0.32 cm) holes on either side of each stud. Make the holes evert 12 in (30 cm) along the length of each stud. Leave about 2 in (5.1 cm) of space between the holes and the studs to avoid damaging your forms. [12] X Research source

The wires hold the forms together when you pour the concrete. If the forms slip out of place, you’ll be looking at a concrete mess instead of a solid wall.

Another way to do this is by sliding tie rods through the holes. Slide brackets onto the ends of the rods so they can’t slide out of place. [14] X Research source

Check your local hardware store for spacers. Many places sell “spreader cleats” or a similarly-named product. If you can’t find any, you can always cut them yourself out of scrap boards.

Set the loop on top of your wall for now. Try tying them to the wall so the wires don’t slip into the concrete as you pour it.

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Pouring and Curing Concrete

Mix enough concrete to complete the wall all at once. Purchase some concrete mix and pour it all into a mixer with a ramp or hose. Add water and stir the concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions. [17] X Expert Source

Gerber Ortiz-Vega
Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC Expert Interview. 10 March 2020. Good concrete has a gray, uniform consistency. [18] X Research source

If you add too much water, the concrete turns a little soupy. It will weaken your wall, so don’t overmix your batch of concrete.
If you can’t make the entire wall at once, divide it into smaller sections. Mix enough concrete to fill each section at a time. This is very useful for long walls where the concrete might dry out before you’re done pouring it.
Make sure you wear glasses, gloves, and a ventilated mask when you're mixing concrete. It's also a good idea to wear long pants. [19] X Expert Source

Step 2 Pour the concrete in layers, starting at the end of the wall." width="460" height="345" />

If you can help it, don’t wait to pour additional layers. The concrete will cool and begin to settle. If you have to wait, pour a store-bought concrete bonding adhesive onto the settled concrete so the next layer bonds to it.

Take the spacers out as you work to prevent the concrete from curing around them. Leaving them in will leave gaps in the layers, weakening the wall.

Pack down as much of the concrete as you can before scraping off the excess. Any air bubbles or empty space left behind reduces the integrity of your wall.
To help pack and level the concrete properly, tap the forms with a hammer or mallet.

Some concrete mixes take 28 days in total to solidify, but you will need to remove the forms before then to finish the installation.

Old forms can be reused if you plan on making more walls! You can also recycle the wood for other projects.
If you leave the wires in place, they may rust and discolor the wall.

Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for drying your concrete mix. Some mixes require less than the usual 28 days to fully cure.
If you happen to see holes or other signs of damage, fix them as soon as possible. Try using a store-bought concrete patching mix. Usually, you mix the patching material like concrete, then spread it over the damaged portion with a trowel.

What Should I Know Before Building a Concrete Wall?

Expert Q&A

Is it a good idea to seal concrete? Gerber Ortiz-Vega
Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC

Gerber Ortiz-Vega is a Masonry Specialist and the Founder of GO Masonry LLC, a masonry company based in Northern Virginia. Gerber specializes in providing brick and stone laying services, concrete installations, and masonry repairs. Gerber has over four years of experience running GO Masonry and over ten years of general masonry work experience. He earned a BA in Marketing from the University of Mary Washington in 2017.

Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC Expert Answer

Sealing concrete can help preserve the color and prevent stains. Unsealed concrete will absorb water, while water will just slide right off of sealed concrete.

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How do you mix concrete at home? Gerber Ortiz-Vega
Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC

Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC Expert Answer

First, buy some concrete mix. Then, put on safety glasses, gloves, and a ventilated mask. Pour the concrete mix into a mixer with a ramp or hose. Then, mix in the amount of water specified on the package. Stir the concrete to mix it. Be sure to follow any manufacturer instructions.

How do I join two pieces of plywood together? Community Answer

Builder's choice, on that one. Depending on the length of the mold and how many external braces are required, I like to stick with whatever will make disassembly easiest without having to pry against your fresh concrete - a trim nailer is usually sufficient, but plain old all-purpose construction screws also work fine. Remember, you wont be leaving the mold on there until it's fully cured - just long enough for the concrete to set up to the point that it won't collapse under its own weight; usually only one to three hours. Remember to coat the inside of your form with fresh motor oil (paintbrush works) for easy release.